Care, protection and renovation without sanding.

It means no wood is removed with a sanding machine. The treatment may be deep cleaning, a protective maintenance layer or a specialist recoating system for factory UV-finished parquet using LOBA 2K Contact.

Not always. If the protection has worn through to the wood, localised or full sanding and a new finishing system may be required.

A maintenance layer is a thinner protective layer for light signs of use; depending on the product, it may be removable or permanent. A topcoat provides new mechanical and chemical resistance and requires more rigorous preparation.

All chemical routes presented on this page are designed exclusively with LOBA products and the manufacturer's current technical instructions.

A full-room photo, a close-up taken towards the light, confirmation of whether the parquet is lacquered or oiled, the approximate floor area, location, and a description of any scratches, stains or wear.

Photos can help identify the correct route. The final quotation depends on the area, the condition of the existing finish, access, whether a test area is required and the selected system.

No. A care layer may conceal light marks. Deep damage through the finish or into the wood requires different preparation and often sanding.

No. It is intended for industrially UV-finished parquet and requires thorough preparation, a test area and an approved topcoat.

Stripping often uses a single-disc machine, green pad and wet vacuum. The difference is that the old wood itself is not sanded with a sanding machine.

Actual wear determines the interval. As a guide, LOBA recommends at least annual care under normal use and more often under commercial traffic.

Common causes include applying too much product, using a dirty mop, leaving old film residue or touching up a coating that has begun to dry.

Yes. Current LOBA guidance also lists InvisibleCare for maintaining extra-matt and satin-finished surfaces; nevertheless, test it on a sample area first.

The surface may not be absorbent enough, the product may have been applied too thickly, or excess may not have been removed. Factory UV-oiled surfaces often require a different route.

Localised refreshing is often possible on non-film-forming oiled surfaces, but the colour transition must be checked on a test area.

Oil generates heat as it cures by oxidation. Crumpled cloths or pads may self-ignite, so make them safe immediately after use.

The TDS specifies CareRemover for water-resistant lacquered floors and other approved surfaces. Oiled and waxed systems require different processes.

Dissolved dirt and old film must be removed immediately. Ordinary wiping may simply spread them across the surface.

Not necessarily. A stain under the finish or in the wood itself is no longer surface dirt and may require repair or sanding.

No. A care layer is designed to extend service life and conceal light signs of wear. A new 2K finish provides different mechanical and chemical protection.

No. Care-product residues must be removed completely because even a small amount can compromise adhesion.

InvisibleCare may be suitable for extra-matt lacquered floors. 2K InvisibleProtect is a new protective finish for correctly prepared bare wood, not a general care product for an old finish.

No. The area may simply be dirty or its protective coating may be worn. A cleaning test and viewing the floor towards the light help distinguish surface-film wear from wood damage.

A local transition is often easier on oiled surfaces; on lacquered floors, a difference in colour and gloss may remain visible. The correct decision depends on the system.

No. It is an adhesion primer that bonds a new topcoat to a suitable factory UV finish; it is not a filler for damaged wood.

It cannot be guaranteed. The age of the wood, light exposure, previous products and absorbency all affect the colour transition.

A conventional maintenance oil may not penetrate a non-absorbent UV-oiled surface. After testing, LOBA lists film-forming Permanent OilCare or NatureWax as possible alternatives.

Observe the full-traffic time in the selected product's TDS; for several maintenance oils it is 12 hours under standard conditions.

No. The system is intended for industrially finished engineered parquet and requires preparation, a test area and an approved top coat. The result of the adhesion test decides, not the age or brand of the parquet.

Because it would remove the brushed or bevelled geometry that is part of the look. That is exactly why an adhesion primer is often the more sensible route on such floors.

The top coat is applied over 2K Contact earliest after 2 hours and at the latest within 24 hours. Outside that window adhesion is no longer assured.

No. Care and polishing products soften them optically, because they fill the microrelief and even out the reflection. They do not restore the protection and do not close open wood.

Because low side light reveals them. That is the most reliable way to see the real state of the surface.

It gets the same number. It reveals fewer of them, because it scatters light instead of directing it. Resistance is set by the composition and thickness of the coating, not by the sheen level.

Most often because of too high a product concentration or a cloth that was not wrung out enough. The residue dries into a film that scatters light.

With a care film sometimes yes, with a worn finish no. Polishing adds no protection and on a worn-through finish only deepens the difference.

If it is uneven, sticky or greyish along the edges, yes. A new coat over an uneven film creates an even more uneven surface.

When the surface is dull and worn, but the finish is not yet worn through to the wood. Then the job uses up none of the usable layer.

Technically yes, but it almost always leaves a visible boundary. The top coat is renewed up to a natural edge of the room — a threshold or a door.

It depends on the load, not on the calendar. The sign to repeat is that water on the busiest spots no longer beads the same way as elsewhere.

Because the product was applied unevenly, or because the film softened faster on the busier spots. Unevenness is a sign of residue, not of dirt.

Not significantly, but it increases the risk. More water and a higher temperature mean longer contact with the wood; what works is the mechanical pad and the right product, not the temperature.

No. A new coat over a softened film will not dry evenly and will prolong the stickiness.

No. Only the care film above the finish is removed; the finish and the wood remain untouched. Sanding removes a layer of wood.

A residue of the product on the surface would prevent even drying and the adhesion of the next coat. A pass with clean water is part of the procedure, not an extra.

Technically yes, but visibly a boundary appears between the treated and untreated part. The whole connected surface is treated.

Not by the calendar. Wear decides: loss of water repellency, a dry look, matting and a greyish trail along the walkways. In a hallway this shows much sooner than in a bedroom.

The excess is not absorbed, stays on the surface, dries poorly and traps dirt. Removing the excess within the prescribed time is part of the procedure.

On natural unpigmented wood the transition is often almost invisible. On pigmented floors the difference in absorbency shows, so the whole connected surface is treated.

No. It removes dirt and the old care film. If the finish underneath is worn, after cleaning it is still worn — only clean.

By the test area. If the cleaned spot returns to an even appearance, cleaning was enough. If it stays dull, the finish itself is worn.

When the wood is open, grey or stained, when scratches go through the finish and when elements move. Then sanding or substrate repair is needed.